Weekly Pizza Lunch: Marta

Marta pizza

From left: the Funghi pizza (fontina, hen of the woods and chanterelle mushrooms, onion, thyme) and the Salsiccia (sauce, mozzarella, cremini mushrooms, sausage).

My #weeklypizzalunch/#Kubslunch this week was with my friend and former MSLO colleague Jennifer Jarett at Marta, Danny Meyer’s new Roman-style pizzeria in the “NoMad” neighborhood’s Martha Washington Hotel.

The mushroom pizza here is OFF THE HOOK — if people still say that (I don’t think they do). I’d almost consider adding chanterelles to my own mushroom pizza IF they weren’t so expensive and a pain in the ass to clean. The sausage on the Salsiccia is a trip down memory lane — like the stuff from Little League pizza lunches at a “pizza parlor.” The crust is exceedingly thin (about 170 grams for a pizza that’s about 12 inches or so) and shatteringly crisp around the edges, presumably a nod to Danny Meyer’s St. Louis upbringing, where cracker crust “St. Louis–style” pizzas are common. I’d love to see him make another nod to STL with a provel-topped pizza. Call it “provelone,” and it could still fit with the Roman theme.


Marta pizzas

From left: the “Cavolini” (Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, pickled chili, Parmesan) and the “Coppa Cotta” (shoulder ham, arugula, red onion, fontina). Both from November 7, 2014.

Marta: 29 East 29th Street, New York NY 10016; 212-651-3800; martamanhattan.com

About the author: Adam Kuban is a one-time foodblogger turned aspiring pizzeria owner — see margotspizza.com. Founder of Slice and A Hamburger Today and founding editor of Serious Eats. He enjoys photography, urban hiking, and naps.